LIGHTENING AGENT AND OXIDATIVE PROCESS FOR THE LIGHTENING OF KERATINOUS FIBERS

专利摘要:
The object of the present invention is the application of a combination of 2- [2-hydroxy-3- (trimethylammonio) propoxy] ethylcellulose ether chloride and at least one amino acid selected from arginine , lysine, histidine or at least one of the salts of these amino acids in a blond coloring powder for the reduction of damage to the keratinous fibers by a blonding treatment by oxidation.
公开号:FR3053588A1
申请号:FR1756084
申请日:2017-06-30
公开日:2018-01-12
发明作者:Bernd ANDERHEGGEN；Burkhard Muller
申请人:Henkel AG and Co KGaA；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

Holder (s): HENKEL AG & CO. KGAA.
Extension request (s)
Agent (s): OFFICE ERNEST T. FREYLINGER S.A ..
© LIGHTENING AGENT AND OXIDATIVE PROCESS FOR THE LIGHTENING OF KERATINOUS FIBERS.
FR 3 053 588 - A1 (57) The object of the present invention is the application of a combination of 2- [2-hydroxy-3- (trimethylammoniojpropoxyjethylcellulose ether chloride) and at least one amino acid, selected from arginine, lysine, histidine or at least one of the salts of these amino acids in a blonde coloring powder for the reduction of damage to keratin fibers by a bleaching treatment by oxidation.
The present invention relates to a blonde coloring powder, which serves as an agent for lightening keratin fibers, in particular human hair. Furthermore, the present invention relates to the use of the agent for a gentle blonde coloring or for the lightening by oxidation of human hair as well as a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for the lightening of keratin fibers, which comprises a blonde coloring powder as well as a preparation of oxidizing agent separate therefrom.
In addition, a method will be described for the oxidative lightening of keratin fibers using said blonde coloring powder and from the kit comprising this blonde coloring powder.
Concerning the blonde coloring powder, it is a preparation of oxidizing agent in the form of powder, anhydrous, containing at least a parsley or a percarbonate.
The lightening of the hair color is indeed the wish of many consumers, because the blonde is considered as attractive and desirable in order to follow the fashion. To this end, various blonde coloring agents (with different properties) are commercially available. The oxidizing agents contained in these products are able to lighten the hair fibers by the oxidative destruction of melanin, the hair dye. In order to obtain a moderate bleaching effect, it suffices to use hydrogen peroxide - if necessary using ammonia or other alkalinizing agents - as the sole oxidizing agent. In order to obtain a more pronounced blonding effect, a hydrogen peroxide compound and at least one compound, generally selected from percarbonates and persalts, in particular the peroxodisulfate salts and / or the peroxomonosulfate salts, are generally used. In order to enhance the blonding effect, the agents contain higher concentrations of hydrogen peroxide and percarbonates or persalts, in particular persulfates. Dark, dark brown or black hair can be lightened with 4 to 6 shades in one step. Hydrogen peroxide and percarbonates or persalts are kept separate from each other until use, so as not to deactivate percarbonates or persalts prematurely. The hydrogen peroxide component, which comprises an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide, has an acid pH value in order to stabilize the hydrogen peroxide, in particular a pH value of 2.5 to 5.5, in particular from 3 to 5, respectively measured at 20 ° C.
For the degrading effect of melanin caused by hydrogen peroxide and for the bleaching effect on keratin fibers, it is however advantageous that the application mixture (hydrogen peroxide solution and parsley) has a value. alkaline pH, which is preferably in the range of 8 to 12, very preferably in the range of 8.5 to 11.5, it is no longer preferably in the range of 9 to 10.5, respectively measured at 20 ° C. .
There are several possibilities for adjusting an alkaline pH value of the lightening application mixture:
The blonde coloring powder contains, in addition to at least one parsley or percarbonate, at least one alkalizing agent in powder form in a total amount such that the application mixture has the desired alkaline pH value; or the hydrogen peroxide solution is not only combined with the blonde coloring powder, but, in addition, with a preparation of alkalizing agent to form the application mixture.
If precursors of oxidation dyes and / or direct action dyes are added to the preparation of alkalizing agent and / or to the blonde coloring powder, the hair can thus be colored simultaneously. Hair coloring agents with three corresponding components are in particular offered to consumers whose dark hair is very rich in melanin.
Lightening, however, causes damage to the hair; in fact, the hair dyes as well as the elements of the hair structure are damaged by oxidation. Depending on the intensity of the degree of degradation, it can be seen that the hair is rough, brittle and difficult to comb, or even has a reduced robustness and tensile strength, and as a last resort, breaks. The more hydrogen peroxide, if necessary parsley or percarbonate, is used, the more the damage generally caused to keratin fibers.
In order to minimize damage to the hair and mitigate the harmful effect of the oxidizing agent, attempts are always made to establish a formula for coloring and lightening hair containing a parsley with a higher oil content.
In the prior art, for example, suspensions of blond coloring agent are described, which constitute anhydrous suspensions of fine-grained persalts or percarbonates, solid at 25 ° C. and 1013 mbar, in an oil. or oil mixture, which can be thickened with an oil gelling agent if desired; see EP 0778020, EP 1034777 and EP 1380287. As such, the following drawbacks should be noted: the production of a homogeneous mixture from this very hydrophobic paste and from the preparation of highly aqueous hydrogen peroxide, as well as, if necessary, the preparation of alkalizing agent, generally also aqueous, is difficult and requires vigorous stirring or kneading for an extended period of time. From a technical point of view, the production of a suspension of blond coloring agent is also more expensive than that of a mixture of parsley in powder form.
The present invention therefore had the task of proposing lightening or blond coloring agents for keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which damages the keratin fibers as little as possible and which are easy to produce and to handle. As such, the reduction of damage to the fibers should be achieved not by oils, as much as possible, but by alternative caring active ingredients.
Surprisingly, these missions have been accomplished by the subject of the claims.
By fibers containing keratin or keratin fibers is meant according to the invention materials such as furs, wool, feathers and in particular human hair. Although the agent according to the invention is suitable in the first place for blonding and / or lightening keratin fibers, in principle, there is nothing to prevent its use in other fields.
The measurement of the tensile strength (Young's modulus) of keratin fibers constitutes an adequate parameter for the quantification of the damage caused to the fibers, in particular damage caused to the hair.
A first object of the present invention is therefore a blonde coloring powder, containing
at. at least one oxidizing agent, selected from sodium percarbonates and inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, as well as compounds thereof,
b. in addition ether chloride of 2- [2-hydroxy-3- (trimethylammonio) propoxy] ethylcellulose,
vs. in addition at least one amino acid, selected from arginine, lysine, histidine or at least one of the salts of these amino acids,
d. and at least complexing agent, selected from the acids mentioned below and / or their alkali metal salts: ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA); n-hydroxyethylethylenediaminetriacetic acid; aminotrimethylene phosphonic acid; diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid; lauroylethylenediaminetriacetic acid; nitrilotriacetic acid; iminodisuccinic acid; N2-hydroxyethyliminodiacetic acid; ethylene glycol-bis- (beta-aminoethyl3053588 ether) -N, N-tetraacetic acid; aminotrimethylene phosphonic acid; pentasodium aminotrimethylene phosphonate as well as compounds thereof, in a total amount of 0.1 - 1.4% by weight, preferably 0.2 1.4% by weight, very preferably 0.5 - 1.4 % by weight, respectively related to the weight of the blonde coloring powder.
By the term "powder" or "in powder form" is meant according to the invention a solid pharmaceutical form, capable of flowing at 20 ° C and 1013 mbar, composed of individual particles whose particle size is included in the range of 0.1 µm to 1.6 mm maximum. Particle sizes can be determined using laser diffraction measurement in accordance with ISO 13320-1 (2009). If necessary, the particles can be adapted to the requirements of the blonde coloring powder by physical treatment (sieving, pressing, granulation or transformation into pellets) or by the addition of certain additives in their particle size, in order to allow, for example , better miscibility of the individual components of the powder or the miscibility of the blonde coloring powder with a preparation of hydrogen peroxide.
Preferable blonde coloring powders according to the invention have a mass density in the range from 500 to 1000 g / l (gram / liter), preferably from 550 to 900 g / l, very preferably from 600 to 820 g / l. The determination of the mass density is preferably carried out according to EN ISO 60 (Version 01/2000) or DIN ISO 697 (Version 01/1984).
Unless otherwise stated, all temperature data refer to a pressure of 1013 mbar.
The blonde coloring powder according to the invention contains, as the first essential component, at least one oxidizing agent, selected from sodium percarbonates and inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, as well as the compounds of these this.
By "sodium percarbonates" is meant the complexes of sodium carbonate and hydrogen peroxide. The general formula of sodium percarbonate generally found on the market is written: 2 Na2CC> 3 · 3 H2O2. Sodium percarbonate is in the form of a white powder soluble in water, which disintegrates easily in sodium carbonate and in "active" oxygen with a whitening and oxidizing effect.
By peroxosulfuric acid is meant peroxodisulfuric acid and peroxomonosulfuric acid (Caro acid).
Preferably, at least one salt of a peroxosulfuric acid is selected from ammonium peroxodisulfate, alkali metal peroxodisulfates, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, alkali metal peroxomonosulfates and alkali metal hydrogen peroxomonosulfates. The elements ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate and potassium hydrogen peroxomonosulfate are very preferable. In addition, during the work on the present invention, it has been found to be very preferable for the blonde coloring powder according to the invention to contain at least two different peroxodisulfates. Preferable peroxodisulfate salts are therefore combinations of ammonium peroxodisulfate and potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate.
The preferable blond coloring powders according to the invention contain at least one oxidizing agent, selected from sodium percarbonates and inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid as well as the compounds thereof, in a total amount of 5 - 85% by weight, preferably 10 75% by weight, very preferably 15 - 65% by weight, it is no longer possible preferably 20 - 55% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the coloring powder in blond.
The blonde coloring powder according to the invention contains, as a second essential component, 2- [2-hydroxy-3 (trimethylammonio) propoxy] ethylcellulose ether chloride. Preferably, the 2- [2-hydroxy-3- (trimethylammonio) propoxy] ethylcellulose ether chloride is present in a total amount of 0.01 - 1.00% by weight, very preferably 0.10 0.60% by weight, even more preferably 0.20 - 0.48% by weight, it is no more preferably 0.30 - 0.47% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the blonde coloring powder.
The blonde coloring powder also contains, as a third essential component, at least one amino acid, selected from arginine, lysine, histidine or at least one of the salts of these amino acids. The “arginine” element could not be more preferable. Mixtures of arginine and lysine may be very preferable according to the invention. Among the suitable “arginine, lysine or histidine salts” which are preferable according to the invention, there are ammonium salts, alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts, in particular lithium salts, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium, in addition hydrohalides, in particular hydrochlorides, as well as the compounds of these salts. Lysine hydrochloride is a very preferable amino acid salt according to the invention. The suitable amino acids according to the invention, selected from arginine, lysine, histidine and their salts, can also contain water of crystallization.
Preferable blonde coloring powders according to the invention contain at least one amino acid, selected from arginine, lysine, histidine or at least one salt of these amino acids, in a total amount converted on the mass to acids free amines of 0.1 - 7% by weight, preferably 0.2 - 5% by weight, very preferably 0.5 - 2.5% by weight, more preferably 1 - 2% by weight, respectively based on weight of blonde coloring powder.
The combination of 2- [2-hydroxy-3- (trimethylammonio) propoxy] ethylcellulose ether chloride with arginine has been found to be most preferable according to the invention. Surprisingly, it has been found that the combination of 2- [2-hydroxy-3- (trimethylammonio) propoxy] ethylcellulose ether chloride and arginine results in a significant reduction in hair damage due to thinning capillary by oxidation.
The preferable blonde coloring powders according to the invention contain 2- [2-hydroxy-3- (trimethylammonio) propoxy] ethylcellulose ether chloride in a total amount of 0.01 - 1.00% by weight, very preferably 0.10 0.60% by weight, even more preferably 0.20 - 0.48% by weight, more preferably 0.30 - 0.47% by weight, as well as at least one acid amino, selected from arginine, lysine or at least one salt of these amino acids, in a total amount converted on the mass into free amino acids of 0.1 - 7% by weight, preferably 0.2 - 5% in weight, very preferably 0.5 - 2.5% by weight, one can no longer preferably 1 - 2% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the blonde coloring powder.
Preferable blonde coloring powders according to the invention additionally contain at least one inorganic alkalinizing agent, solid at 20 ° C. and 1013 mbar, including at least one sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate with a molar ratio. SiO ₂ / Na ₂ O of £ 2, preferably 2.5-3.5, in a total amount of 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the powder of blond coloring.
Preferable blonde coloring powders according to the invention contain at least one inorganic alkalizing agent, solid at 20 ° C. and 1013 mbar, preferably in a total amount of 1 - 60% by weight, preferably 5 - 55% by weight , very preferably 10-50% by weight, one can no longer preferably 15 - 45% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the blonde coloring powder.
In addition to at least one sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate having a SiO ₂ / Na ₂ O molar ratio of> 2, preferably 2.5-3.5, in a total amount of 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the blonde coloring powder, other inorganic alkalinizing agents, solid at 20 ° C. and 1013 mbar very preferable according to the invention are selected, as as optional alkalizing agent, among the alkaline earth metal silicates, the alkaline earth metal carbonate hydroxides, the alkaline earth metal carbonates, the alkaline earth metal metasilicates, the alkali metal hydroxides, the metal hydroxides alkaline earth, phosphates of alkali metals (and alkaline earth) and hydrogen phosphates of alkali metals (and alkaline earth), as well as the compounds of these substances. In addition to at least one compulsory sodium or metasilicate silicate, respectively endowed with a SiO ₂ / Na ₂ O molar ratio of £ 2, preferably from 2.5 to 3.5, inorganic alkalinizing agents, solid at 20 ° C and 1013 mbar preferable according to the invention are selected from magnesium hydroxide-carbonates as well as the compounds of these alkalinizing agents. The preferable magnesium hydroxydarbonates according to the invention are those whose formula is written MqCC> 3 Mg (OH) ₂ 2 H ₂ O and those whose formula is written MgCO ₃
Mg (OH) ₂ . Magnesium hydroxide carbonate with the formula MgCC> 3
Mg (OH) ₂ is very preferable according to the invention.
The very preferable blond coloring powders according to the invention contain, respectively relative to their total weight, 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 40% by weight of sodium silicate endowed with a SiO ₂ / molar ratio. Na ₂ O of> 2, preferably 2.5 to 3.5, and 2 - 20% by weight, preferably 5 - 15% by weight, very preferably 8 - 25% by weight of magnesium hydroxide carbonate, in as a solid alkalizing agent at 20 ° C and 1013 mbar.
The blond coloring powders which could not be more preferable according to the invention contain, respectively relative to their total weight, 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 40% by weight of sodium silicate endowed with a molar ratio. SiO ₂ / Na ₂ O of> 2, preferably 2.5 to 3.5, and 2 - 20% by weight, preferably 5 - 15% by weight, very preferably 10 - 13% by weight of hydroxide carbonate magnesium (formula MgCC> 3 · Mg (OH) ₂ ), as a solid alkalizing agent at 20 ° C and 1013 mbar.
Insofar as the blonde coloring powder according to the invention or preferable according to the invention contains one or more inorganic carbonates, either as an alkalizing agent or as an oxidizing agent in the form of sodium carbonate - hydrogen peroxide complexes, their content is preferably selected so that, in the oxidation composition (Ox) presented below, the total molar concentration of CO3 ² amounts to at least 0.015 mol / 100 grams of application mixture.
Insofar as the blonde coloring powder according to the invention or preferable according to the invention contains one or more inorganic carbonates, either as an alkalizing agent or as an oxidizing agent in the form of sodium carbonate - hydrogen peroxide complexes, their content is very preferably selected so that, in the oxidation composition (Ox) presented below, the total molar concentration of CO ₃ ² is mathematically at least four times the total concentration of proton donors.
Insofar as the blonde coloring powder according to the invention or preferable according to the invention contains one or more inorganic carbonates, either as an alkalizing agent or as an oxidizing agent in the form of sodium carbonate - hydrogen peroxide complexes, their content could not be more preferably selected so that, in the application mixture provided with the oxidation composition (Ox) presented below, the concentration total CO ₃ ² molar amounts to at least 0.015 mol / 100 grams of application mixture and is mathematically at least four times greater than the total concentration of proton donors.
The blonde coloring powders according to the invention preferably have a water content of 0 to 8% by weight, preferably of 0.1 to 5% by weight, very preferably of 0.5 to 3% by weight of water, respectively related to the weight of the blonde coloring powder.
These indications refer to the free water content. No account is taken of the content of molecularly bound water or of water of crystallization, which may be characteristics of the individual components of the powder. It is for example possible to determine the water content on the model of ISO 4317 (Version 2011-12), using Karl Fischer titration.
In a preferred embodiment, the blonde coloring powder also contains at least one dicarboxylic acid with 2 to 10 carbon atoms, which is very preferably selected from succinic acid, malic acid, oxalic acid , malonic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid D, acid tartaric L, meso-tartaric acid, racemic acid, alpha-ketoglutaric acid, beta-ketoglutaric acid, oxaloacetic acid, and / or at least one salt of these acids as well as mixtures of these compounds, wherein the at least one dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 10 carbon atoms is most preferably selected from succinic acid, malic acid, maleic acid and their salts.
The salts of the dicarboxylic acids having 2 to 10 preferable carbon atoms according to the invention are selected from the mono- and disels of the anions of succinic acid, malic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, l adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid D, tartaric acid L, meso acid -tartaric, racemic acid, alpha-ketoglutaric acid, beta-ketoglutaric acid and oxaloacetic acid with ammonium ions, alkaline earth ions, alkaline metal ions 3053588 earth and basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine and histidine, in particular provided with ions of lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium, as well as compounds of these salts.
The succinic acid, very preferable according to the invention, has a melting temperature in the range from 185 - 187 ° C to 1013 mbar, and is a solid substance at 20 ° C. The salts of the succinic acid suitable according to the invention are selected from succinates and hydrogenosuccinates of ammonium ions, alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and ions of basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine and histidine, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, or succinates and hydrogenosuccinates of basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine and / or histidine , eg. arginine succinate, as well as the compounds of these salts. The mentioned salts of succinic acid can also contain bound water of crystallization, in particular sodium succinate hexahydrate, which is very preferable according to the invention.
Malic acid, very preferable according to the invention, is active from an optical point of view. Racemic DL malic acid has a melting temperature in the range of 131-132 ° C to 1013 mbar, and is a solid substance at 20 ° C. The enantiomers D-malic acid and Lmalic acid have a melting temperature in the range of 100-101 ° C to 1013 mbar. Racemic DL malic acid is preferable for cost reasons.
The suitable malic acid salts according to the invention are selected from malates and hydrogen malates of ammonium ions, alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and ions of basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine and histidine, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium ions, as well as the compounds of these salts, in particular disodium malate and dipotassium malate, but also malate calcium. The salts of the malic acid mentioned, suitable according to the invention, can contain bound water of crystallization, in particular disodium malate hemihydrate and disodium malate trihydrate.
The oxalic acid, preferable according to the invention, has a melting temperature of 189.5 ° C (anhydrous) at 1013 mbar or 101.5 ° C as a dihydrate. The suitable oxalic acid salts according to the invention are selected from the oxalates and hydrogen oxalates of ammonium ions, alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and ions of basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine and histidine, in particular ions of lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium, as well as the compounds of these salts.
Malonic acid, preferable according to the invention, has a melting temperature of 135 ° C at 1013 mbar. The suitable malonic acid salts according to the invention are selected from malates and hydrogen malates of ammonium ions, alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and ions of basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine and histidine, especially ions of lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium, as well as the compounds of these salts.
The adipic acid, preferable according to the invention, has a melting temperature of 152 ° C. at 1013 mbar. The suitable adipic acid salts according to the invention are selected from the adipates and hydrogenoadipates of ammonium ions, alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and basic amino acid ions, such as arginine, lysine and histidine, especially ions of lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium, as well as the compounds of these salts.
The pimelic acid, preferable according to the invention, has a melting temperature of 105 ° C at 1013 mbar. The suitable pimelic acid salts according to the invention are selected from pimelates and hydrogenopimelates of ammonium ions, alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and ions of basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine and histidine, especially ions of lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium, as well as the compounds of these salts.
The suberic acid, preferable according to the invention, has a melting temperature of 144 ° C. at 1013 mbar. The suitable suberic acid salts according to the invention are selected from the suberates and hydrogenosuberates of ammonium ions, alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and ions of basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine and histidine, especially ions of lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium, as well as the compounds of these salts.
Azelaic acid, preferable according to the invention, has a melting temperature of 106 ° C at 1013 mbar. The suitable azelaic acid salts according to the invention are selected from azelates and hydrogenazelates of ammonium ions, alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and basic amino acid ions, such as arginine, lysine and histidine, especially ions of lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium, as well as the compounds of these salts.
Sebacic acid, preferable according to the invention, has a melting temperature of 134.5 ° C. at 1013 mbar. The suitable sebacic acid salts according to the invention are selected from the sebacates and the hydrogen sebacates of ammonium ions, alkali metal ions, alkaline earth metal ions and ions of basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine and histidine, in particular ions of lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium, as well as the compounds of these salts.
Maleic acid, very preferable according to the invention, has a melting temperature of 130 to 131 ° C (from ethanol or benzene) and from 138 to 139 ° C (from water) at 1013 mbar. The suitable maleic acid salts according to the invention are selected from maleates and hydrogen maleates of ammonium ions, alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium ions and calcium, as well as the compounds of these salts.
The fumaric acid, very preferable according to the invention, has a melting temperature of 287 ° C. at 1013 mbar in sealed test tubes; fumaric acid sublimes at 200 ° C. The suitable fumaric acid salts according to the invention are selected from fumarates and hydrogen fumarates of ammonium ions, alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium ions and calcium, as well as the compounds of these salts.
The d-tartaric acid (rotation to the left), very preferable according to the invention, has a melting temperature of 168-170 ° C at 1013 mbar. The suitable salts of dtartaric acid according to the invention are selected from tartrates and hydrogenotartrates of ammonium ions, alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium ions, magnesium and calcium, as well as the compounds of these salts.
The l-tartaric acid (rotation to the right), very preferable according to the invention, has a melting temperature of 168-170 ° C at 1013 mbar. The salts of Itartric acid suitable according to the invention are selected from tartrates and hydrogenotartrates of ammonium ions, alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium ions, magnesium and calcium, as well as the compounds of these salts.
The meso-tartaric acid, very preferable according to the invention, has a melting temperature of 140 ° C. to 1013 mbar. The suitable mesotartric acid salts according to the invention are selected from tartrates and hydrogenotartrates of ammonium ions, alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium ions, magnesium and calcium, as well as the compounds of these salts.
The racemic acid, very preferable according to the invention, is the racemic mixture of d-tartaric acid and l-tartaric acid. Racemic acid has a melting temperature of 206 ° C at 1013 mbar. The suitable racemic acid salts according to the invention are selected from tartrates and hydrogenotartrates of ammonium ions, alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium ions, magnesium and calcium, as well as the compounds of these salts.
The alpha-ketoglutaric acid, very preferable according to the invention, has a melting temperature of 112-116 ° C at 1013 mbar. The suitable alpha-ketoglutaric acid salts according to the invention are selected from the alpha-ketoglutarates and alpha-keto-hydrogenoglutarates of ammonium ions, alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium ions, sodium ions, potassium, magnesium and calcium, as well as the compounds of these salts.
The beta-ketoglutaric acid, very preferable according to the invention, has a melting temperature of 122 ° C. at 1013 mbar; it melts during dissociation. The suitable beta-ketoglutaric acid salts according to the invention are selected from the beta-ketoglutarates and beta-keto-hydrogenoglutarates of ammonium ions, alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium ions, sodium ions , potassium, magnesium and calcium, as well as the compounds of these salts.
Oxaloacetic acid, very preferable according to the invention, has a melting temperature of 161 ° C. at 1013 mbar. The suitable oxaloacetic acid salts according to the invention are selected from the oxaloacetates and oxalhydrogenoacetates of ammonium ions, alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, in particular lithium, sodium, potassium ions, magnesium and calcium, as well as the compounds of these salts.
Preferable blonde coloring powders according to the invention contain at least one dicarboxylic acid with 2 to 10 carbon atoms, selected from succinic acid, malic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, and / or at least one salt of these acids, in a total amount converted on the mass into free dicarboxylic acids of 0.03 - 7% by weight, preferably 0.1 - 5% by weight, very preferably 0.5 - 3% by weight, we can no longer preferably 0.9 - 1.5% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the powder blond coloring.
Other preferable blonde coloring powders according to the invention contain succinic acid and / or at least one salt of succinic acid in a total amount converted on the mass into free dicarboxylic acids of 0.03 - 7% by weight, preferably 0.1-5% by weight, very preferably 0.5 - 3% by weight, it is no longer possible preferably 0.9 - 1.5% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the coloring powder in blond.
Other preferable blond coloring powders according to the invention contain malic acid and / or at least one salt of malic acid in a total amount converted on the mass into free dicarboxylic acids of 0.03 - 7% by weight, preferably 0.1-5% by weight, very preferably 0.5 - 3% by weight, it is no longer possible preferably 0.9 - 1.5% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the coloring powder in blond.
At least one dusting agent can be used for dusting the blonde coloring powder according to the invention, which is in particular selected from at least one oil, in particular selected from paraffin oil, silicone oil or the like. esterified oil and the compounds of these oils.
The preferable blonde coloring powders according to the invention therefore additionally contain at least one oil in a total amount of 0.1 - 15% by weight, preferably 0.5 - 10% by weight, very preferably 1 - 8% by weight. weight, it is no more preferably 2 - 6% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the coloring powder in blonde.
The preferable oils according to the invention are selected from natural and synthetic hydrocarbons, very preferably from paraffin oils, C18-C30 isoparaffins, in particular isoeicosane, polyisobutene and polydecene, further selected from C isoparaffins ₈ -C ₁₆ , in particular among isodecane, isododecane, isotetradecane and isohexadecane as well as compounds thereof, as well as 1,3-di- (2ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane.
Other preferable oils according to the invention are selected from the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C8-22 alkanols. C12-C15 benzoic acid alkyl esters are particularly preferred.
Other preferable oils according to the invention are selected from fatty alcohols having 6 - 30 carbon atoms, which are unsaturated or branched and saturated or branched and unsaturated. Preferable alcoholic oils are 2hexyldecanol, 2-octyldodecanol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol.
Other preferable cosmetic oils according to the invention are selected from the triglycerides (= triple esters of glycerin) of linear or branched C8-30 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated. The use of natural oils, e.g. amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil , blackberry seed oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, pecan oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, oil sea buckthorn flesh, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil, oil rose, wheat germ oil, and liquid fractions of coconut oil and the like can be very preferable. However, synthetic triglyceride oils are also preferable, especially capric / caprylic triglycerides.
Other highly preferable cosmetic oils according to the invention are selected from dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C2-C10 alkanols, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, adipate (2-ethylhexyl), dioctyl adipate, diethyl- / di-nbutyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, succinate diisooctyl, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di- (2-hexyldecyl) succinate.
Other highly preferable cosmetic oils according to the invention are selected from the esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 atoms of carbon, which can be hydroxylated. It is preferably 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate and ethyl-2- stearate hexyl, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, stearate isocetyle, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecy isononanoate, cetaryl isononanoate, ethyl2-hexyl laurate, ethyl-2-hexyl isostearate, cocoate ethyl-2-hexyl, palmyl octyl-2-dodecyl, butyl octyl butyl-2-octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, oleate n-decyl, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and ethylene glycol dipalmitate.
Other preferable cosmetic oils according to the invention are selected from the adducts of 1 to 5 units of propylene oxide on mono- or multivalent Cs-22 alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, e.g. myristyl ether PPG-2 and myristyl ether PPG-3. Other preferable cosmetic oils according to the invention are selected from the products of addition of at least 6 units of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to mono- or multivalent C3-22 alkanols such as as glycerin, butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, which can be esterified if desired, e.g. butyl ether PPG-14, butyl ether PPG-9, butanediol PPG-10, stearyl ether PPG-15 and glycereth-7 diisononanoate.
Other preferable cosmetic oils according to the invention are selected from C8-C22 fatty alcohol esters of monovalent or multivalent C ₂ C7 hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid, e.g. C12-C15 alkyl lactate.
Other preferable cosmetic oils according to the invention are selected from symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid provided with C3-22 alkanols, C3.22 alkanediols, or C3.22 alkanetriols , eg. dicaprylyl carbonate, or esters in accordance with DE 19756454 A1, in particular glycerol carbonate.
Other cosmetic oils, suitable according to the invention, are selected from silicone oils, among which for example. dialkylsiloxanes and alkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, but also hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethylane.
According to the invention, it is extremely preferable to use mixtures of the oils mentioned above.
The blond coloring powders preferable according to the invention are characterized in that the cosmetic oil is selected from natural and synthetic hydrocarbons, most preferably from paraffin oils, isoparaffins IC8-C _30, including isoeicosane, polyisobutene and polydecene, Cs-C16 isoparaffins, as well as 1,3-di (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane; benzoic acid esters of linear or branched Cs-22 alkanols; fatty alcohols having 6 - 30 carbon atoms, which are unsaturated or branched and saturated or branched and unsaturated; triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cs-30 fatty acids, optionally hydroxylated, in particular natural oils; dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C2-C10 alkanols; esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols with 2 - 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids with 2 - 30 carbon atoms, which can be hydroxylated; adducts of 1 to 5 units of propylene oxide on mono or multivalent Cs-22 alkanols; adducts of at least 6 units of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide on mono- or multivalent C3.22 alkanols; esters of C2-C22 fatty alcohols of mono or multivalent C2-C7 hydroxycarboxylic acids; symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid provided with C3.22 alkanols, C3-22 alkanediols or C3-22 alkanetriols; esters of dimer fatty acids C12-C22 unsaturated (dimer fatty acids) with alkanols, C ₂ -cis linear, branched or cyclic moieties or with alkanols, C ₂ -C ₆ linear or branched multivalent; silicone oils as well as the compounds of the substances mentioned above and preferably present in a total amount of 0.1 - 15% by weight, preferably 0.5 - 10% by weight, very preferably 1 - 8% by weight , it is not possible more preferably 2 - 6% by weight, respectively related to the weight of the laying of coloring blonde.
Other preferable blond coloring powders according to the invention contain at least one polymer, selected from homo- and copolymers of acrylic acid, homo- and copolymers of methacrylic acid, homo- and copolymers of itaconic acid. , the polysaccharides which can be the subject of a physical and / or chemical modification, and the compounds of these polymers, in which one or more of the polymers mentioned is / are very preferably present (s) in a total amount of 0, 1 - 6% by weight, preferably 0.5 - 4% by weight, very preferably 1 - 3.5% by weight, we can no longer preferably 2 - 3% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the coloring powder in blond.
Another object of the present invention is a process for the lightening of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, for which a blonde coloring powder according to the invention or preferable according to the invention is mixed with an oxidation composition which , respectively based on its weight, contains 50 - 96% by weight, preferably 70 - 93% by weight, very preferably 80 - 90% by weight of water and 0.5 - 20% by weight of hydrogen peroxide and contains further at least one means for adjusting the pH value in an amount such that the oxidation composition has a pH value in the range of 2.5 to 5.5 measured at 20 ° C, then immediately applied to the keratin fibers, left to stand on the fibers for 5 to 60 minutes, then washing the fibers with water and, optionally, rinsing with a detergent containing surfactants, in which the blonde coloring powder (B) and the oxidation composition (Ox ) are preferably mixed in a ratio expressed by weight (B): (Ox) of 0.2 - 1, very preferably 0.3 - 0.8, more preferably 0.4 - 0.7, no more preferably 0 , 5 - 0.6.
The oxidation composition (Ox) used in the lightening process according to the invention essentially contains water and hydrogen peroxide. The hydrogen peroxide concentration is on the one hand determined by legal regulations and on the other hand by the desired effect. It amounts to 0.5 20% by weight, preferably 3 - 12% by weight, very preferably 6 - 9% by weight in hydrogen peroxide (counted as H ₂ O ₂ at 100%), respectively reported by weight of the oxidation composition (Ox).
For the purpose of stabilizing hydrogen peroxide, the oxidation composition (Ox) preferably has an acid pH value, in particular a pH value in the range from 2.5 to 5.5, measured at 20 ° C. For the purpose of stabilizing hydrogen peroxide, it preferably also contains complexing agents, preservatives and / or buffering substances.
Preferably according to the invention, the blonde coloring powder is composed such that the compound with the oxidation composition (Ox) previously mentioned, that is to say the ready-to-use color modifier the use, in particular blond coloring agent, has an alkaline pH value, preferably a pH value of 8 to 11.5, very preferably a pH value of 8.5 to 11, it is no longer possible to have a pH value from 9.0 to
10.5, respectively measured at 20 ° C.
The oxidation compositions (Ox) very preferably used according to the invention additionally contain at least one oil and / or at least one fatty component with a melting point in the range 23-110 ° C, preferably in a total amount of 0.1 - 60% by weight, very preferably 0.5 - 40% by weight, one can no longer preferably 2-24% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the oxidation composition (Ox) preferably used according to the invention. The oils suitable for the oxidation compositions (Ox) preferably used according to the invention are the same oils as those which have been previously disclosed as an adequate dedusting agent.
In the oxidation compositions (Ox), the fatty components preferably used according to the invention endowed with a melting point in the range 23-110 ° C. are selected from the linear saturated 1-alkanols endowed with 12-30 carbon atoms, preferably in a total amount of 0.1 - 8% by weight, very preferably 3.0 to 6.0% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the oxidation composition (Ox) used according to the invention .
Preferably, the at least one saturated linear 1-alkanol having 12-30 carbon atoms is selected from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and l behenyl alcohol and the compounds of these 1-alkanols, most preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetyl / stearyl alcohol compounds.
The oxidation compositions (Ox) preferably used according to the invention additionally contain, respectively relative to their weight, at least one saturated linear alkanol endowed with 12-30 carbon atoms in a total amount of 0.1 - 8% by weight, preferably in a total amount of 2 - 6% by weight, in which there is at least one 1-alkanol, selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetyl / stearyl alcohol compounds.
Other oxidation compositions (Ox) preferably used according to the invention contain at least one fatty component with a melting temperature in the range 23-110 ° C, which is selected from the esters obtained from a Ο-ιθ-Οθο saturated monovalent alkanol and a C8-C36 monocarboxylic acid, in particular cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate and C20-C40 alkyl stearate, glycerol triesters of carboxylic acids C12 - C ₃₀ saturated linear, can be hydroxylated, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, C14 carboxylic acids
- C36 saturated linear as well as the compounds of the substances previously mentioned.
Other oxidation compositions (Ox) preferably used according to the invention contain at least one surfactant or at least one emulsifier, preferably in a total amount of 0.5-10% by weight, preferably 1 - 5% by weight, respectively related to the weight of the oxidation composition (Ox) used according to the invention.
Within the meaning of the present application, the terms “surfactant” and “emulsifiers” are amphiphilic (bifunctional) compounds, which consist of at least one part of hydrophobic molecule and at least one part of hydrophilic molecule. The hydrophobic residue is preferably a hydrocarbon chain containing 8 to 28 carbon atoms and which can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. Most preferably, this Ca-C28 alkyl chain is linear. The elementary properties of surfactants and emulsifiers are absorption oriented on the interfaces as well as aggregation into micelles and the formation of lyotropic phases.
According to the invention, the anionic, nonionic and cationic surfactants are particularly suitable. However, according to the invention, the zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants are also well suited.
In the compositions according to the invention, all the anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body are suitable as anionic surfactants. These are characterized by an anionic group made soluble in water, such as e.g. a carboxyiate, sulphate, sulphonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms. In addition, the molecule may contain ether glycol or polyglycol groups, ester, ether and amide groups as well as hydroxyl groups . As examples of suitable anionic surfactants, mention may be made of linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms (soap), alkyl ethercarboxylic acids, acyl sarcosides, acyl taurides, acyl isethionates, mono / dialkyl esters of sulfosuccinic acid and monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters of sulfosuccinic acid, linear alkanesulfonates, linear alpha olefin sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates as well as alkenyl phosphates and / or alkyl. Preferable anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms respectively, preferably 12 to 14 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 groups of glycolic ether, preferably 2 to 6 groups of glycolic ether in the molecule. As examples of surfactants of this type, mention may be made of the compounds (designation INCI) Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Myreth Sulfate or Sodium Laureth Carboxylate.
By "zwitterionic surfactants" is meant the surfactant compounds which comprise at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate or sulfate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the elements called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example example the coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and the 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline having respectively 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group as well as the coco acylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the designation of cocamidopropyl betaine (INCI: Cocamidopropyl Betaine).
By "amphoteric surfactants" is meant the surfactant compounds which, in addition to a C ₈ -C24 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH- or -SO3H group in the molecule and are capable of form internal salts. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants that may be mentioned are n-alkyl glycine, n-alkyl propionic acids, n-alkyl aminobutyric acids, n-alkyl aminodipropionic acids, n-hydroxyethyl-nalkyl aminopropyl glycine, n- taurine alkyl, n-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkyl aminopropionic acids and alkyl aminoacetic acids having respectively 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. The very preferable amphoteric surfactants are coco n-alkyl aminopropionate, coco sacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C12-C18 acyl sarcosine.
The nonionic surfactants contain, for example, as hydrophilic groups, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol group and polyglycol ether. These compounds are for example products of addition of 4 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide on linear or branched fatty alcohols, on fatty acids and on alkylphenols, respectively with 8 to 20 C atoms in the alkyl group, ethoxylated mono-, di- and triglycerides, such as, for example. glycerin monolaurate + 20 ethylene oxide, and glycerin monostearate + 20 ethylene oxide, sorbitan fatty acid ester and ethylene oxide adducts on an acid ester sorbitan fat such as e.g. polysorbates (Tween 20, Tween 21, Tween 60, Tween 61, Tween 81), adducts of ethylene oxide on fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, as well as alkylpolyglycosides. C ₈ -C ₂ 2 alkylmonoglycosides and alkyloligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs as well as the adducts of ethylene oxide on linear, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols with 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide respectively per mol of fatty alcohol are in particular suitable as nonionic surfactants.
Other preferably used oxidation compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one surfactant is selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids respectively provided with 10 to 18 C atoms, preferably 12 to 14 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12, preferably 2 to 6 glycolic ether groups in the molecule.
Other oxidation compositions preferably used according to the invention are characterized in that at least one nonionic surfactant, selected from the products of addition of ethylene oxide to linear saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols respectively endowed with from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide per mol of fatty alcohol, as well as at least one anionic surfactant, selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids respectively having 10 to 18 C atoms, preferably 12 to 14 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12, preferably 2 to 6 glycolic ether groups, are contained in the molecule, in which the weight ratio of the whole of all anionic surfactants relative to all of the nonionic surfactants is most preferably in the range of 5 - 50, preferably 10-30.
In the oxidation compositions (Ox) preferably used according to the invention, all the cationic surfactants suitable for use on the human body are suitable as cationic surfactants. These are characterized by at least one cationic group made soluble in water, such as, for example. a quaternary ammonium group, or by at least one cationizable group made soluble in water, such as for example. an amine group, and in addition at least one alkyl group (with lipophilic effect) having from 6 to 30 C atoms or at least one imidazole group (with lipophilic effect) or at least one imidazylalkyl group (with lipophilic effect).
The oxidation compositions (Ox) very preferably used according to the invention contain at least one cationic surfactant, which is preferably selected from quaternary ammonium compounds provided with at least one C8-C24 alkyl residue, esterquats and amidoamines respectively endowed with at least one acyl residue in C8-C24 as well as compounds thereof. The quaternary ammonium compounds having at least one preferable C8-C24 alkyl residue are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides, and ammonium alkylsulfates, such as methosulphates or ethosulphates, such as chlorides of C8-C24 alkyltrimethylammonium, C8-C24 dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and C8-C24 trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyl dimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known by the names INCI Quaternium-27, Quaternium-27 Quaternium-87 and Quaternium-91. The alkyl chains of the surfactants mentioned above preferably have 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
Regarding quaternary esters (esterquats), these are cationic surfactants which have both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element and in addition at least one C8 alkyl residue. -C24 or a C8-C24 acyl residue. Preferred quaternary esters are the quaternary ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternary ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternary ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2- dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. These products are for example marketed under the brands Stepantex®, Dehyquart® and Armocare®. As preferable examples of esters of this kind, mention may be made of N, N-Bis (2-Palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, distearoylethyl diammonium methosulfate and distearoylethyl hydroxyethylammonium methosulfate.
Alkylamidoamines are generally produced by amidification of C8-C24 fatty acids and sections of natural or synthetic fatty acids with C1-C3 dialkylaminoamines. Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is a compound from this group of substances which is very suitable according to the invention.
Other oxidation compositions (Ox) very preferably used according to the invention contain at least one cationic surfactant in a total amount of 0.01 - 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 - 3% by weight, very preferably 0 , 3 - 2% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the oxidation composition (Ox) used according to the invention.
Another object of the present invention is a multi-component conditioning unit (Kit-of-Parts) for the lightening of keratin fibers, which contains at least two packaged components separated from each other and which is characterized in what:
i) the first component (I) is a blonde coloring powder according to the invention or preferable according to the invention, ίί) the second component (II) is an oxidation composition which, respectively based on its weight, contains 50 - 96% by weight, preferably 70 - 93% by weight, very preferably 80 - 90% by weight in water and 0.5 - 20% by weight in hydrogen peroxide and has a pH value in the range from 2 , 5 to 5.5, measured at 20 ° C, in which the components (I) and (II) are present in a weight ratio (I): (II) of 0.2 - 1, very preferably 0.3 - 0.8, more preferably 0.4 - 0.7, we can no longer preferably 0.5 - 0.6.
Another object of the present invention is a multi-component packaging unit (Kit-of-Parts) for the modification of the color of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which comprises at least three packaged components separated from each other, characterized in that:
i) the first component (I) is a blonde coloring powder according to the invention or preferable according to the invention, ii) the second component (II) is an oxidation composition which, respectively based on its weight, contains 50 - 96% by weight, preferably 70 - 93% by weight, very preferably 80 - 90% by weight in water and 0.5 - 20% by weight in hydrogen peroxide and has a pH value in the range from 2 , 5 to 5.5, measured at 20 ° C, iii) the third component (III) is an alkalizing composition (Alk), which contains water and at least one alkalizing agent, selected from ammonia, the alkanolamines and the compounds thereof, and which has a pH value in the range from 8 - 12, preferably 9 11, very preferably 9.5 - 10.5, respectively measured at 20 ° C , in which the blonde coloring powder (B), the oxidation composition (Ox) and the alkalinization composition (Alk) are pre preferably feel in a weight ratio (B): (Ox): (Alk) of (0.7 - 1.3): (2-3): (2-3), very preferably (0.8-1, 2): (2.3-2.7): (2.3-2.7), we can no longer preferably 1: 2: 2, relative to each other.
A multi-component packaging unit comprises several individual components which are arranged separately from each other, as well as a common package for these components, for example a folding box. Inside it, the components are placed in different, respectively separate containers. In the context of the present invention, the term “container” means an envelope which is in the form of a bottle, if necessary resealable, of a tube, of a box, of a pocket, of a sachet or of 'a similar envelope. According to the invention, there is no restriction on the nature of the material of the envelope. However, it is preferably glass or plastic envelopes.
In addition, the packaging unit can contain application aids, such as combs, brushes or paintbrushes, protective clothing, in particular disposable gloves, as well as instructions for use.
In another preferred embodiment of the invention, a blonde coloring powder according to the invention or preferable according to the invention can be combined with an alkalinizing composition and with an oxidizing composition to form a modifying agent color by lightening for keratin fibers.
Since during the treatment of keratin fibers, especially human hair, by oxidizing agents, especially by hydrogen peroxide, the fibers' own dye (melanin) is to some extent destroyed, the fibers / hair are necessarily lightened and their color therefore changes, even in the absence of a dye. Within the meaning of the present application, the term “color modification” therefore includes both lightening and coloring with one or more dyes.
The alkalizing composition (Alk) used according to the invention contains water and at least one alkalizing agent, selected from ammonia, alkanoiamines and compounds thereof, and has a pH value included in the range 8 - 12, preferably 9 - 11, very preferably 9.5 10.5, respectively measured at 20 ° C. Preferable alkanoiamines are selected from monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol and triethanolamine as well as compounds thereof, in which monoethanolamine is very preferable. Ammonia is an alkalizing agent that couldn't be more preferable.
Generally, ammonia (NH ₃ ) is used in the form of its aqueous solution. Aqueous ammonia solutions often contain concentrations of 10 to 32% by weight of this element (NH ₃ ). As such, it is preferable to use an aqueous ammonia solution containing 25% by weight of ammonia (NH ₃ ).
In addition to ammonia and alkanoiamines, at least one other alkalinizing agent may be present, selected from alkali metal silicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, alkaline earth metal hydroxide carbonates, metal carbonates alkaline earth metals, alkali metal silicates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkali metal hydroxides and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, as well as compounds of these substances.
In the alkalinization compositions preferably used according to the invention, the ammonia and / or monoethanolamine are preferably present in amounts of 0.01 - 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 - 7.5% by weight, more preferably 0.5 - 5.5% by weight and very preferably 1.5 4.5% by weight - respectively based on the weight of the alkalizing composition.
Another object of the present invention is a method for modifying the color of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, for which a blonde coloring powder according to the invention or preferable according to the invention is mixed with a composition of oxidation (Ox) which, respectively relative to its weight, contains 50 - 96% by weight, preferably 70 - 93% by weight, very preferably 80 - 90% by weight of water and 0.5 - 20% by weight of hydrogen peroxide and further contains at least one means for adjusting the pH value in an amount such that the oxidation composition has a pH value in the range of 2.5 to 5.5 measured at 20 ° C , and is further mixed with an alkalizing composition (Alk) containing water and at least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonia, alkanolamines and compounds thereof, and has a pH value included in the range of 8 - 12, preferably 9 to 11, very preferably 9.5 to 10.5, respectively measured at 20 ° C., is then immediately applied to the keratin fibers, left to stand on the fibers for 5 to 60 minutes, then washing the fibers with water and, optionally, rinse with a detergent containing surfactants, in which the blonde coloring powder (B), the oxidation composition (Ox) and the alkalinization composition (Alk) are preferably mixed in a ratio expressed by weight (B): (Ox): (Alk) of (0.7 - 1.3): (2 - 3): (2 - 3), very preferably (0.8 - 1.2) : (2.3 - 2.7): (2.3 - 2.7), we can no longer preferably 1: 2: 2.
Preferably according to the invention, the blonde coloring powder is composed such that the compound with the oxidation composition (Ox) previously mentioned and with the alkalinization composition (Alk) previously mentioned, that is that is to say the ready-to-use color modification agent, in particular a blonde coloring agent, has an aqueous pH value, preferably a pH value of 8 to 11.5, very preferably a pH value of 8, 5 to 11, you can no longer preferably have a pH value of 9.0 to
10.5, respectively measured at 20 ° C.
The ready-to-use compounds derived from a blonde coloring powder according to the invention or preferable according to the invention provided with one of the oxidation compositions (Ox) previously mentioned and optionally provided with one of the compositions alkalinization (Alk) previously mentioned preferably have a viscosity in the range from 15,000 to 100,000 mPas, very preferably 20,000 to 85,000 mPas, respectively measured at 20 ° C with a Brookfield viscometer type DV-II +, spindle 5 with a speed of 4 revolutions / minute. A viscosity included in this range allows on the one hand that the ready-to-use agent applies well and on the other hand, has a fluidity such that it guarantees, for the agent, a duration of sufficiently long effect on the site of action on keratin fibers.
In order to facilitate the miscibility of the alkalinization composition used according to the invention with the blonde coloring powder according to the invention or preferable according to the invention and with the oxidation composition used according to the invention, as well as to improve the application properties of the resulting application compound, the alkalinization composition preferably used according to the invention preferably contains, relative to its weight, at least one surfactant in a total amount of 0.5 - 10 % by weight, preferably 2 - 8% by weight.
The surfactants suitable for the alkalinization compositions (Alk) preferably used according to the invention are selected from the same anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers as those previously disclosed as suitable surfactants and emulsifiers. preferably used oxidation (Ox) compositions.
The alkalinization compositions (Alk) very preferably used according to the invention additionally contain at least one oil and / or at least one fatty component endowed with a melting point in the range 23-110 ° C, preferably in a total amount of 0.1 - 60% by weight, very preferably 0.5 - 40% by weight, one can no longer preferably 2-24% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the alkalinization composition (Alk) preferably used according to the invention. The oils suitable for the alkalinization compositions (Alk) preferably used according to the invention are the same oils as those which have been previously disclosed as an adequate dedusting agent.
In the alkalinization compositions (Alk), the fatty components preferably used according to the invention endowed with a melting point in the range 23-110 ° C. are selected from the linear saturated 1-alkanols endowed with 12-30 carbon atoms, preferably in a total amount of 0.1 - 20% by weight, very preferably 3 to 15% by weight, one can no longer preferably 5 - 10% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the alkalizing composition used according to the invention.
Preferably, the at least one saturated linear 1-alkanol having 12-30 carbon atoms is selected from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and l behenyl alcohol and the compounds of these 1-alkanols, most preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetyl / stearyl alcohol compounds.
The alkalinization compositions (Alk) preferably used according to the invention additionally contain, respectively relative to their weight, at least one 13053588 saturated linear alkanol endowed with 12 - 30 carbon atoms in a total amount of 0.1 - 20% by weight, preferably in a total amount of 3 15% by weight, there can no longer preferably be 5 - 10% by weight, in which there is at least one 1-alkanol, selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetyl / stearyl alcohol compounds.
Other alkalinization compositions (Alk) preferably used according to the invention contain at least one fatty component with a melting temperature in the range 23-110 ° C, which is selected from the esters obtained from a alkanol ₆ -C6o monovalent saturated monocarboxylic acid and a C ₈ -C ₃ 6, in particular cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate and alkyl stearate C ₂ o ₄ oC, triesters of glycerin carboxylic acid Ci ₂ - C30 saturated linear, which may be hydroxylated, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, carboxylic acids C14 - C ₃₆ saturated linear as well as compounds of the aforementioned substances.
In addition, the blonde coloring powder according to the invention or preferable according to the invention and / or the alkalinization compositions preferably used according to the invention may contain at least one dye with direct action. These are dyes which act directly on the hair and which do not require an oxidation process to generate the colors. Some very preferable dyes of complementary colors with direct action are present for matting imprints of undesirable residual colors caused by the degradation products of melanin, in particular on the areas of red or blue. The direct-acting dyes are generally nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. The direct acting dyes can be anionic, cationic or non-ionic. The direct-acting dyes are respectively present in an amount of 0.001 to 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the blonde coloring powder or of the alkalinization composition (Alk).
Preferable direct acting cationic dyes are the compounds known by the international trade names or names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1 , Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, bromophenol blue and tetrabromophenol blue. Preferable direct acting cationic dyes are triphenylmethane cationic dyes, for example Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, aromatic systems which are substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as by ex. Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, cationic anthraquinone dyes, such as HC Blue 16 (Bluequat B) as well as direct-acting dyes containing a heterocycle, which has at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, in particular Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51. The cationic dyes with direct action marketed under the trade name Arianor are also cationic dyes with direct action preferable according to the invention. Particularly suitable as non-ionic direct dyes are nonionic nitro and quinone dyes as well as neutral azo dyes. Preferred non-ionic direct dyes are the compounds known under the international designations or the trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Blue 3 dispersed, HC Violet 1, Violet 1 dispersed, Violet 4 dispersed, Black 9 dispersed, as well as 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2 amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl ) aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4- (2hydroxyethyl) amino -5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 2 - [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) amino] benzoic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4naphtoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino- 6-chloro-4-nitro3053588 phenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4nitrophenol. According to the invention, the presence of a combination of tetrabromophenol blue and Acid Red 92 is extremely preferable.
The alkalizing composition preferably used according to the invention contains, as another optional ingredient, at least one dye precursor by oxidation, preferably selected from one or more developer components and, where appropriate, one or more coupler components.
Very preferably, at least one oxidation dye precursor is present, in a total amount of 0.0001 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 8% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the alkalinization composition preferably used according to the invention.
According to the invention, it may be preferable to select, as developer component, at least one compound from the group consisting of pphenylenediamine, p-toluylenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2 - (1,2) -dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- ( 1 H-imidazol-1 yl) propyl] amine, N, N'-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) -1,3diamino-propan-2-ol, bis- (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,3-bis- (2,5diaminophenoxy) -propane-2-ol, N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) -1,4- diazacycloheptane, 1,10-bis- (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, paminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol,
4-amino-2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 2,4,5, 6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6triaminopyrimidine, as well as their physiologically compatible salts.
Preferably, at least one developer component is present, in a total amount of 0.0001 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 8% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the alkalinization composition preferably used according to the invention .
In the context of oxidation coloring, the coupler components do not generate significant coloring by themselves; on the contrary, they always require the presence of developer components. According to the invention, it is therefore preferable that at least one coupler component is additionally used when using at least one developer component.
The preferable coupler components according to the invention are selected from 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2- hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4- methoxy-2-methylphenol, the
5- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) phenol, Ncyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) benzene, 3ethylamino-4-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1,3-Bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2amino-4- (2- hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1,3-Bis- (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-Bis- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ({3 - [(2hydroxyethyl) amino ] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,5-dimethylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2- [3-morpholino-4ylphenyl) amino] ethanol, 3-amino-4- (2-methoxyethoxy) -5-methylphenylamine, 1-amino-3 -bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, resorcin, monomethyl ether of resorcin, 2-methylresorcin, 5-methylresorcin, 2,5-dimethylresorcin, 2-chlororesorcin, 4-chlororesorcin, pyrogallo 1, 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6methoxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,43053588 dimethylpyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine, 2- (2-methoxyethyl) amino-3-amino-6methoxypyridine, 2- (4'-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-aminopyridine, 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1naphthol, 1,3-dihydroxynaphthaline, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthaline, 1,6dihydroxynaphthaline, la 1,7-dihydroxynaphthaline, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthaline, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthaline, 2,3-dihydroxynaphthaline, 4-hydroxyindol,
6- hydroxyindol, 7-hydroxyindol, 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline,
7-hydroxyindoline, 4,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxypyrimidine, 2,4,6-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-amino-4-methylpyrimidine , 2-amino-4-hydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine and 4,6dihydroxy-2-methylpyrimidine or mixtures of these compounds or their physiologically compatible salts.
Preferably, at least one coupler component is present, in a total amount of 0.0001 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 8% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the alkalinization composition preferably used according to the invention .
As such, developer components and coupler components are generally used in substantially equimolar amounts. If even equimolar use has been found to be adequate, a certain excess of oxidative dye precursors is not disadvantageous, so that there may be developer components and coupler components in a molar ratio of 0.2 - 2, especially 0.5 - 1.
Preferably, the duration of action lasts from 5 to 60 min., In particular from 5 to 50 min., Very preferably from 10 to 45 min. During the period of action of the agents on the fibers, it may be advantageous to contribute to the process of lightening or of modification of the color by providing heat. The presence of an action phase at room temperature is also valid according to the invention. In particular, the temperature is, during the duration of action, between 20 ° C and 40 ° C, in particular between 25 ° C and 38 ° C. The agents already give good treatment results even at physiologically compatible temperatures, below 45 ° C.
After the end of the color modification process, all components on the keratin fibers are rinsed with water or a detergent containing surfactants. As such, a shampoo generally available commercially can act as a detergent; It is then possible to do without the detergent and the rinsing process can be carried out with tap water, when the color modifier has a high content of surfactants.
Another object of the present invention is the use of a combination of 2- [2-hydroxy-3- (trimethylammonio) propoxy] ethylcellulose ether chloride and in addition at least one amino acid, selected from among arginine, lysine, histidine or at least one of the salts of these amino acids, in a blond coloring powder which contains at least one oxidizing agent, selected from sodium percarbonates and inorganic salts d peroxosulfuric acid, as well as compounds thereof, and additionally contains at least one complexing agent, selected from the acids mentioned below and / or their alkali metal salts: ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) ; n-hydroxyethylethylenediaminetriacetic acid; aminotrimethylene phosphonic acid; diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid; lauroylethylenediaminetriacetic acid; nitrilotriacetic acid; iminodisuccinic acid; N-2-hydroxyethyliminodiacetic acid; ethylene glycol-bis- (beta-aminoethyl ether) -N, Ntetraacetic acid; aminotrimethylene phosphonic acid; pentasodium aminotrimethylene phosphonate as well as compounds thereof, in a total amount of 0.1 - 1.4% by weight, preferably 0.2 - 1.4% by weight, very preferably 0.5 -1 , 4% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the blonde coloring powder, for the reduction of damage to keratin fibers, in particular human hair, caused by the treatment of these fibers with a mixture of the blonde coloring powder and an oxidation composition which, respectively based on its weight, contains 50 - 96% by weight, preferably 70 - 93% by weight, very preferably 80 - 90% by weight in water and 0.5 - 20% by weight in hydrogen peroxide and has a pH value in the range of 2.5 to 5.5, measured at 20 ° C.
What has been exposed on the blonde coloring powders according to the invention and preferable according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis to the multi-component packaging units (Kits of parts) according to the invention and preferable according to the invention.
What has been explained on the blonde coloring powders according to the invention and preferable according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis to the methods of lightening and / or modifying the color of the keratin fibers according to the invention and preferable according to the invention.
What has been explained on the oxidation compositions used according to the invention and preferably used according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis to the multi-component packaging units (Kits of parts) according to the invention and preferable according to the invention. 'invention.
What has been explained on the oxidation compositions or alkalinization compositions according to the invention and preferable according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis to the processes for lightening and / or modifying the color of the keratin fibers according to the invention and preferable according to the invention.
What has been exposed on the blonde coloring powders according to the invention and preferable according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis to the application according to the invention.
What has been explained about the oxidation compositions or alkalinization compositions used according to the invention and preferably used according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis to the application according to the invention.
EXAMPLES
1.1 Developer emulsion
Ingredient Quantity (% by weight) Dipicolinic acid (2,6-dicarboxypyridine) 0.1 Potassium hydroxide 0.15 Etidronic acid 0.2 Cetearyl sodium sulfate 0.4 Cetearyl alcohol 3.5 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.8 Liquid paraffin 17.0 Disodium pyrophosphate 0.1 Sodium benzoate 0.04 Hydrogen peroxide 9.0 Water ad 100
1.2 Formulas of the coloring powder in blonde 10 (unless otherwise stated, the quantity indications correspond to "% by weight")
# 1(V) # 2(E) Potassium persulfate 32.00 32.00 Ammonium persulfate 9.90 9.90 L-arginine - 1.00 Sodium silicate with SiO2 / Na2O (molar) from 2.61-2.70 36.0 36.0 Magnesium hydroxide carbonate 13.45 10.25 Sodium hexametaphosphate 0.20 0.20
Methyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid copolymer 1.00 1.00 Carboxymethylcellulose 2.00 2.00 EDTA Na4 0.60 1.40 Polyquaternium-10 - 0.47 Hydrophilic silicic acid 0.40 0.40 Cl 77007 (Ultramarines) 0.15 0.15 Liquid paraffin 4.30 4.30 Perfume 0.60 0.60 Total 100.00 100.00 Difference in tensile strength (Young's modulus) after two blond colorings (x 10 ⁹ ) - (1.8 ±0.2) - (1.3 ±0.1)
The respective blonde coloring powder and developer emulsion were mixed in a weight ratio of 1: 2.
All the blonde coloring treatments cause a loss of tensile strength of the hair fibers. However, this loss of tensile strength can be significantly reduced from a statistical point of view with the composition E2 according to the invention.
2. Application
100 g of the mixture (respective blonde coloring powder and developer emulsion) freshly produced were applied to locks of dry hair (4 g of application mixture per gram of hair).
After being blonded for 45 minutes at 32 ° C., the locks were rinsed for 2 minutes with water and dried with a hair dryer.
This blond coloring process was repeated once, so that in total, the locks were blonded twice successively.
3. Hair tensile strength measurements
Context
Young's modulus is also known as elastic modulus (module E). It corresponds to the ratio of the tension (“stress”) on the elongation (“strain”) for a linear elastic behavior (included in the region of Hooke).
Hooke's law on elasticity states that the longitudinal modification of a body (elongation or "strain") depends linearly on the stress which causes the deformation (tension or "stress").
For a wet hair, the linear correlation is verified for a lengthening of 0 to 2%.
The Young's modulus is a benchmark for the thickness of a fiber (the higher the value of the Young's modulus, the thicker the fiber).
The wicks used for the measurements consist of 40 fibers (Kerling International (Backnang, Germany), European Natural Hair 7/0; Charge # 2014, mixture 138).
First determine the average cross section of each hair (Universal-Dimensions-Measuring-Device UDM 5000A, (Zimmer GmbH, Darmstadt)), at a temperature of 22 ° C and a relative atmospheric humidity of 50 %. These values are necessary for the calculation of stress values.
3.2. Determination of Young's modulus before application of the blonde coloring agent
All hair fibers were left to soak in water for one hour. Then, they were stretched with the Stress-Strain-System MTT 680 equipped with a UV 1000 control unit (Dia-Stron Ltd, UK) with a constant speed of 10 mm / min within the elastic phase (0- 1.5% elongation).
Then, we calculated the module E (Young's module) (software: UvWin 1.32.1000 (Dia-Stron Ltd, UK).
3.3. Determination of Young's modulus after application of the blonde coloring agent
The hair fibers were stored for at least 48 hours after the four blonde coloring treatments.
The hair fibers were left to soak in water for one hour. Then, they were stretched with the Stress-Strain-System MTT 680 equipped with a UV 1000 control unit (Dia-Stron Ltd, UK) with a constant speed of 10 mm / min within the elastic phase (0- 1.5% elongation). Then, we calculated the module E (Young's module) (software: UvWin 1.32.1000 (Dia-Stron Ltd, UK).

权利要求:
Claims (14)
[1" id="c-fr-0001]
Claims
1. Blonde coloring powder containing
a) at least one oxidizing agent, selected from sodium percarbonates and inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, as well as compounds thereof,
b) in addition ether chloride of 2- [2-hydroxy-3- (trimethylammonio) propoxyjéthylcellulose,
c) in addition at least one amino acid, selected from arginine, lysine, histidine or at least one of the salts of these amino acids,
d) and at least complexing agent, selected from the acids mentioned below and / or their alkali metal salts: ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA); n-hydroxyethylethylenediaminetriacetic acid; aminotrimethylene phosphonic acid; diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid; lauroylethylenediaminetriacetic acid; nitrilotriacetic acid; iminodisuccinic acid; N-2-hydroxyethyliminodiacetic acid; ethylene glycol-bis- (beta-aminoethyl ether) -N, Ntetraacetic acid; aminotrimethylene phosphonic acid; pentasodium aminotrimethylene phosphonate as well as compounds thereof, in a total amount of 0.1 - 1.4% by weight, preferably 0.2 1.4% by weight, very preferably 0.5 - 1.4 % by weight, respectively related to the weight of the blonde coloring powder.
[2" id="c-fr-0002]
2. blonde coloring powder according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one oxidizing agent a) is present in a total amount of 5-85% by weight, preferably 10-75% by weight, very preferably 15 to 65% by weight, it is no longer possible preferably 20 to 55% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the coloring powder in blond.
[3" id="c-fr-0003]
3. blonde coloring powder according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it contains 0.01 - 1.00% by weight, preferably 0.10 - 0.60% by weight, very preferably 0.20 - 0.48% by weight, more preferably 0.30 - 0.47% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the coloring powder in blond, in ether chloride of 2- [2-hydroxy-3 ( trimethylammonio) propoxy] ethyl cellulose.
[4" id="c-fr-0004]
4. blonde coloring powder according to any one of claims 1 3, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably selected from succinic acid, the malic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelainic acid, sebacic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, d-tartaric acid, l-tartaric acid, meso-tartaric acid, racemic acid, alpha-ketoglutaric acid, beta-acetoglutaric acid, oxaloacetic acid and / or at least one salt of these acids , very preferably in a total amount converted on the mass into free dicarboxylic acids of 0.03 - 7% by weight, preferably 0.1-5% by weight, very preferably 0.5 - 3% by weight, one can no longer preferably 0.9 - 1.5% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the blonde coloring powder.
[5" id="c-fr-0005]
5. blonde coloring powder according to any one of claims 1 4, characterized in that it contains at least one amino acid, selected from arginine, lysine, histidine or at least one salt of these acids amino acids, in a total amount converted on the mass into free amino acids of 0.1 7% by weight, preferably 0.2 - 5% by weight, very preferably 0.5 2.5% by weight, it is no longer possible preferably 1 - 2% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the blonde coloring powder.
[6" id="c-fr-0006]
6. blonde coloring powder according to any one of claims 1 5, characterized in that it contains from 0.01 - 1.00% by weight, preferably 0.10 - 0.60% by weight, very preferably 0.20 - 0.48% by weight, more preferably 0.30 - 0.47% by weight of ether chloride of 2- [2hydroxy-3- (trimethylammonio) propoxy] ethylcellulose, and additionally contains at least one amino acid, selected from arginine, lysine, histidine or at least one salt of these amino acids, in a total amount converted on the mass into free amino acids of 0.1 - 7% by weight, preferably 0.2 - 5% by weight, very preferably 0.5 - 2.5% by weight, one can no longer preferably 1 - 2% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the blonde coloring powder.
[7" id="c-fr-0007]
7. blonde coloring powder according to any one of claims 1 6, characterized in that it contains a water content of 0 to 8% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, very preferably of 0.5 to 3% by weight in water, respectively based on the weight of the blonde coloring powder.
[8" id="c-fr-0008]
8. blonde coloring powder according to any one of claims 1 7, characterized in that the at least one oxidizing agent a) is selected from sodium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, ammonium peroxodisulfate , sodium percarbonate, sodium peroxomonosulfate, potassium peroxomonosulfate, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, as well as mixtures of these compounds, preferably mixtures of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate or mixtures of sodium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate.
[9" id="c-fr-0009]
9. blonde coloring powder according to any one of claims 1 8, characterized in that it contains at least one oil in a total amount of 0.1 - 15% by weight, preferably 0.5 - 10% by weight, very preferably 1 - 8% by weight, one can no longer preferably 2 - 6% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the blonde coloring powder.
[10" id="c-fr-0010]
10. A method for lightening keratin fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that a blonde coloring powder according to any one of claims 1-9 is mixed with an oxidation composition which, respectively related to its weight, contains 50 - 96% by weight, preferably 70 - 93% by weight, very preferably 80 - 90% by weight of water and 0.5 - 20% by weight of hydrogen peroxide and additionally contains at least a means for adjusting the pH value in an amount such that the oxidation composition has a pH value in the range from 2.5 to 5.5 measured at 20 ° C., is then immediately applied to the keratin fibers, left to stand on the fibers for 5 to 60 minutes, then washing the fibers with water and, optionally, rinsing with a detergent containing surfactants, in which the coloring powder in bjond (B) and the composition of oxidation (Ox) are preferably mixed in a ratio expressed by weight (B): (Ox) of 0.2 - 1, very preferably 0.3 - 0.8, more preferably 0.4 - 0.7, it is no longer possible preferably 0.5 - 0 , 6.
[11" id="c-fr-0011]
11. A multi-component packaging unit (Kit-of-Parts) for the lightening of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which comprises at least two packaged components separated from each other, characterized in that:
i) the first component (I) is a blonde coloring powder according to any one of claims 1 - 9, ii) the second component (II) is an oxidation composition which, respectively based on its weight, contains 50 - 96% by weight, preferably 70 - 93% by weight, very preferably 80 - 90% by weight in water and 0.5 - 20% by weight in hydrogen peroxide and has a pH value in the range from 2 , 5 to 5.5, measured at 20 ° C., in which the components (I) and (II) are preferably present in a weight ratio (I): (II) of 0.2 - 1, very preferably 0, 3 - 0.8, more preferably 0.4 - 0.7, we can no longer preferably 0.5 - 0.6.
[12" id="c-fr-0012]
12. Method for modifying the color of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, for which a blonde coloring powder according to any one of claims 1 - 9 is mixed with an oxidation composition (Οχ) which, respectively based on its weight, contains 50 - 96% by weight, preferably 70 - 93% by weight, very preferably 80 - 90% by weight of water and 0.5 - 20% by weight of hydrogen peroxide and also contains at least one means for adjusting the pH value in an amount such that the oxidation composition has a pH value in the range of 2.5 to 5.5 measured at 20 ° C, and is further mixed with a alkalizing composition (Alk) containing water and at least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonia, alkanolamines and compounds thereof, and has a pH value in the range of 8 - 12 , preferably from 9 - 11, very preferably from 9.5 - 10.5, respectively measured at 20 ° C., is then immediately applied to the keratin fibers, left to stand on the fibers for 5 to 60 minutes, then washing the fibers with water and, optionally, rinsing with a detergent containing surfactants, in which the blonde coloring powder (B), the oxidation composition (Ox) and the alkalinization composition (Alk) are preferably present in a weight ratio (B): (Ox): (Alk) of ( 0.7 - 1.3): (2 - 3): (2 - 3), very preferably (0.8 - 1.2): (2.3 - 2.7); (2.3 - 2.7), we can no longer preferably 1: 2: 2.
[13" id="c-fr-0013]
13. Multi-component packaging unit (Kit-of-Parts) for modifying the color of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which comprises at least three packaged components separated from each other, characterized in that:
i) the first component (I) is a blonde coloring powder according to any one of claims 1 - 9, ii) the second component (II) is an oxidation composition which, respectively based on its weight, contains 50 - 96% by weight, preferably 70 - 93% by weight, very preferably 80 - 90% by weight in water and 0.5 - 20% by weight in hydrogen peroxide and has a pH value in the range from 2 , 5 to 5.5, measured at 20 ° C, iii) the third component (ill) is an alkalizing composition (Alk), which contains water and at least one alkalizing agent, selected from ammonia, the alkanolamines and the compounds thereof, and which has a pH value in the range from 8 - 12, preferably 9 11, very preferably 9.5 - 10.5, respectively measured at 20 ° C in which the blonde coloring powder (B), the oxidation composition (Ox) and the alkalinization composition (Alk) occurs preferably in a weight ratio (B): (Ox): (Alk) of (0.7 - 1.3): (2 - 3): (2 - 3), very preferably (0.8 - 1, 2): (2.3 - 2.7): (2.3 - 2.7), we can no longer preferably 1: 2: 2.
[14" id="c-fr-0014]
14. Use of a combination of 2- [2-hydroxy-3 (trimethylammonio) propoxy] ethyl cellulose ether chloride, preferably in an amount of 0.01 - 1.00% by weight, very preferably 0.10 - 0.60% by weight, even more preferably 0.20 - 0.48, one can no longer preferably 0.30 - 0.47% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the coloring powder in blond, and furthermore on at least one amino acid, selected from arginine, lysine, histidine or at least one of the salts of these amino acids, in a blonde coloring powder which contains at least one oxidizing agent, selected from sodium percarbonates and the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, as well as compounds thereof, and additionally contains at least one complexing agent, selected from the acids mentioned below and / or their alkali metal salts: l ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA); n-hydroxyethylethylenediaminetriacetic acid; aminotrimethylene phosphonic acid; diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid; lauroylethylenediaminetriacetic acid; nitrilotriacetic acid; iminodisuccinic acid; N-2hydroxyethyliminodiacetic acid; ethylene glycol-bis- (beta-aminoethyl ether) Ν, Ν-tetraacetic acid; aminotrimethylene phosphonic acid; pentasodium aminotrimethylene phosphonate as well as compounds thereof, in a total amount of 0.1 - 1.4% by weight, preferably 0.2 - 1.4% by weight, very preferably 0.5 - 1 , 4% by weight, respectively based on the weight of the blonde coloring powder, for the reduction of damage to keratin fibers, in particular human hair, caused by the treatment of these fibers with a mixture of the
5 blond coloring powder and an oxidation composition which, respectively based on its weight, contains 50 - 96% by weight, preferably 70 - 93% by weight, very preferably 80 - 90% by weight in water and 0.5 - 20% by weight of hydrogen peroxide and has a pH value in the range from 2.5 to 5.5, measured at 20 ° C,
10 wherein the blonde coloring powder is preferably a blonde coloring powder according to any one of claims 2-10.

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FR3104026A1|2021-06-11|Ammonium-free blonde tint powder with reduced dust emission

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US11129779B2|2021-09-28|Thickening system in a percarbonate-containing blonding agent

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GB2581578A|2020-08-26|Use of sodium chloride in bleaching agents based on precarbonate for human hair application

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FR3104028A1|2021-06-11|Ammonia-free blonde tint kit for gentle lightening of keratin fibers

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DE102019217142A1|2020-07-02|Bleaching agent in an ALU sachet

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US20140237734A1|2014-08-28|Color intensification by polyquaternium

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GB2581579A|2020-08-26|Thickening system in a percarbonate-containing blonding agent

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EP3826607A1|2021-06-02|Amine-based reaction products as functional additives

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WO2017148629A1|2017-09-08|Oxidative coloration of hair with reduced hair damage

同族专利:

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公开号 | 公开日

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US20180008524A1|2018-01-11|

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GB201710946D0|2017-08-23|

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GB2556962A|2018-06-13|

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DE102016212430A1|2018-01-11|

引用文献:

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公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题

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DE19545853A1|1995-12-08|1997-06-12|Wella Ag|Hair bleaching preparations|

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DE19756454C1|1997-12-18|1999-06-17|Henkel Kgaa|Surface-active compositions, especially cosmetics, containing glycerol carbonate as emulsifier|

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DE19909661A1|1999-03-05|2000-09-07|Wella Ag|Means for decolourising or bleaching hair|

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FR2842100B1|2002-07-12|2004-09-10|Oreal|ANHYDROUS PASTE FOR THE DECOLORATION OF HUMAN KERATINIC FIBERS|

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EP2191812A1|2008-11-27|2010-06-02|KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH|Bleaching/Highlighting composition|

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JP5603611B2|2010-02-12|2014-10-08|ホーユー株式会社|Hair decolorization and decoloring agent|US10292855B2|2016-05-05|2019-05-21|Yu-Chien WANG|Orthosis device and thread-guiding structure thereof|

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EP3434714A1|2017-07-25|2019-01-30|Henkel AG & Co. KGaA|Water-soluble polyamide polymer and use thereof as functional additive|

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DE102017222125A1|2017-12-07|2019-06-13|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Bleaching agent with percarbonates or perborates and persulfates|

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CN110055771B|2019-05-13|2022-01-25|乐象永续科技（杭州）有限公司|Textile material bleaching and modifying method and use|

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CN110130090B|2019-05-23|2022-02-08|乐象永续科技（杭州）有限公司|One-bath two-step whitening and cationic modification method and application|

法律状态:
2018-06-20| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |

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2019-06-19| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |

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2020-05-08| RX| Complete rejection|Effective date: 20200402 |

优先权:

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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

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DE102016212430.7|2016-07-07|

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DE102016212430.7A|DE102016212430A1|2016-07-07|2016-07-07|Bleaching agent and process for gentle oxidative lightening of keratinic fibers|

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